Zagora is a market town at the southern end of the Draa Valley, where one of the longest palm groves in Morocco gives way to stony desert. It is the usual staging point for trips toward the dunes, and an interesting stop in its own right. This Zagora travel guide covers the town, the valley and how to choose a desert excursion.
Zagora at a Glance
- Best for: palm groves, earthen villages and a first taste of the desert.
- How long: one or two nights.
- Best time: October to April; the date harvest is in autumn.
- Good to know: the big dunes are not in Zagora itself but further south.
The Draa Valley
The road from Ouarzazate crosses a bare mountain pass, then drops to Agdz and follows the Draa River south for nearly a hundred kilometers. The whole way, a ribbon of date palms runs between cliffs, dotted with fortified villages and kasbahs of dried earth. It is one of the most beautiful drives in the country; allow time to stop.
What to See in and Around Zagora
Amezrou
Just across the river, this old quarter was once home to a Jewish community known for its silversmiths. A few workshops still make jewelry by traditional methods, and you can walk through the shaded lanes of the old kasbah and the palm gardens around it.
Tamegroute
About 18 kilometers south, Tamegroute grew up around a religious brotherhood. Its library holds a collection of old manuscripts, some of them centuries old, displayed in glass cases. The village is also known for its green-glazed pottery, fired in wood-burning kilns, and for a quarter of covered, half-underground lanes built to escape the heat.
Jebel Zagora and the Palm Grove
The dark mountain above town can be climbed in a couple of hours for a view over the valley, best at the end of the day. Below, paths wind through the palm grove among irrigation channels and small plots of henna, vegetables and alfalfa.
The “Timbuktu 52 Days” Sign
A painted sign recalls the time when caravans left here for Timbuktu, a journey of 52 days by camel. It is a popular photo stop and a reminder of what this valley once meant to trans-Saharan trade.
Desert Trips from Zagora
It helps to know what is on offer. The dunes closest to Zagora, such as those at Tinfou, are small. They suit travelers with only two days from Marrakech who want a camel ride and a night in a camp. For large dunes, continue to M’Hamid El Ghizlane, about an hour and a half further, and on by 4×4 to Erg Chigaga. Ask any agency exactly which dunes the trip visits.
Getting There and Where to Stay
Zagora is about two and a half to three hours from Ouarzazate and a long day from Marrakech. Buses run daily from both. Accommodation ranges from simple hotels in town to guesthouses and kasbah-style lodges set in the palm grove, which are the most pleasant places to stay.
Practical Tips
- Zagora has banks, pharmacies and fuel. Stock up before heading further south.
- Summer heat is intense; plan activities for early morning and evening.
- Buy dates in season from roadside sellers in the valley.
- Book desert trips through your accommodation or an established agency rather than with touts on the street.
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