M’Hamid El Ghizlane is the last village on the road south through the Draa Valley. Beyond it there is no tarmac, only tracks leading into the Sahara. It is the natural base for reaching the dunes of Erg Chigaga, and a quiet, dusty place with a strong nomad heritage. This M’Hamid El Ghizlane travel guide covers the village and how to plan a desert trip from it.
M’Hamid at a Glance
- Where: about an hour and a half south of Zagora, at the end of the paved road.
- Best for: camel treks and access to remote dunes.
- How long: one night in the village plus one to three in the desert.
- Best time: October to April.
In and Around the Village
The modern village is a single main street of shops, cafés and agencies. Across the dry bed of the Draa lies the old ksar, a fortified earthen village among the palms, still partly inhabited, with shaded covered lanes. A walk there with a local guide is the best introduction to the place.
The weekly market, traditionally held on Mondays, brings in people from the surrounding oases. A few kilometers back up the road, the hamlet of Ouled Driss has a small museum of rural life in an old house.
The Dunes Within Reach
- Small dunes near the village: reachable on foot or by camel in a few hours, good for a sunset or a single night in a bivouac.
- Erg Chigaga: the great dune field about 60 kilometers to the west, two hours by 4×4 or two to three days by camel.
What a Multi-Day Camel Trek Is Like
A trek usually starts in the morning with your guide and camel handlers loading the animals. The first day crosses flat stony desert and low dunes to a simple camp, where tea and a tagine are prepared over a fire. On the second day the landscape opens and the high dunes appear on the horizon; you reach them after five or six hours of walking. A third day is often spent exploring on foot before the return, by camel or by vehicle.
You walk more than you ride, your luggage travels on the camels, and nights are spent in tents or under the stars. Choose an operator who treats the animals well and employs local guides.
Food and Culture
The people of the region include formerly nomadic groups who settled in the oasis as droughts and closed borders ended the old caravan life. Their hospitality, music and cooking remain central to any stay. Try madfouna, a stuffed flatbread sometimes baked in hot sand, and expect many glasses of sweet mint tea. A festival celebrating nomad culture is usually held in the village in spring.
Getting There and Where to Stay
The route from Marrakech runs through Ouarzazate and Zagora and takes a full day or more. There is a daily bus as far as M’Hamid, and shared taxis from Zagora. Accommodation is in simple guesthouses and camps in the palm grove on the edge of the village.
Practical Tips
- Withdraw cash in Zagora; do not rely on finding a working ATM here.
- Pack sun protection, a scarf and warm layers for cold desert nights.
- Arrange your trip in advance or through your guesthouse rather than with the first person who approaches you on arrival.
- Avoid July and August, when the heat is extreme.
Pingback: Erg Chigaga Travel Guide: Morocco's Wildest Dunes
Pingback: Foum Zguid Travel Guide: Gateway to Lake Iriki and Erg Chigaga