Rissani Travel Guide: Market Town at the Door of the Desert

Rissani is the last real town before the dunes of Merzouga. Most visitors see it through a car window, which is a pity: it has one of the most authentic markets in southern Morocco and a long history as the northern end of the trans-Saharan caravan routes. This Rissani travel guide covers what to see during a stop of a few hours.

Rissani at a Glance

Where: in the Tafilalt oasis, about 35 kilometers from Merzouga.
Best for: a traditional souk, history and local food.
How long: half a day.
Best time: October to April, on a market day.

A Town with a Long Past

Beside modern Rissani lie the scattered ruins of Sijilmassa, a city founded in the 8th century that grew rich on the trade in gold and salt across the Sahara. Little remains above ground beyond eroded earthen walls, but the site explains why this remote oasis mattered. The Tafilalt is also the homeland of the Alaouite dynasty, which has ruled Morocco since the 17th century.

What to See

The Souk

The market is held three times a week, traditionally on Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday, and draws people from villages all over the oasis. Sections are devoted to dates, spices, vegetables, clothes, tools and livestock, and there is a famous “parking lot” where traders leave their donkeys. It is a market for locals, which is what makes it worth seeing.

Mausoleum of Moulay Ali Cherif

The founder of the Alaouite line is buried in a shrine on the edge of town. Non-Muslims cannot enter the tomb chamber but may visit the tiled courtyard and garden.

The Ksour Circuit

A loop road of about 20 kilometers runs through the palm grove past a series of fortified villages and old royal residences built of earth. Some are ruined, others still lived in, and a few have fine decorated gateways. It makes a pleasant drive or bicycle ride.

What to Eat

Rissani is the home of madfouna, often called Berber pizza: a round flatbread stuffed with spiced meat, onions, herbs and sometimes almonds or egg, then baked. Several small restaurants near the market specialize in it. The region is also one of Morocco’s main producers of dates, sold in the souk by variety and quality.

Getting There and Onward

Rissani lies about 20 kilometers south of Erfoud and half an hour from the dunes of Erg Chebbi. Long-distance buses from Fes and Marrakech serve the town, and shared taxis run to Merzouga. Coming from the west, the road passes Tinghir and the Todra Gorge.