Boumalne Dades Travel Guide: The Dades Valley and Its Gorges

Boumalne Dades is a small town on the road between Ouarzazate and the desert, at the mouth of the Dades Valley. From here a road climbs north into the High Atlas through red rock formations, earthen kasbahs and a narrow gorge. This Boumalne Dades travel guide explains what to see in the valley and how long to allow.

Boumalne Dades at a Glance

• Best for: mountain scenery, scenic drives and walks between villages.
• How long: one night; two if you want to hike.
• Best time: April to June and September to October.
• Good to know: the best scenery is 15 to 30 kilometers up the valley, not in the town.

Driving Up the Dades Valley

The road follows the river through a green strip of poplars, fig trees and small fields, with red and ochre cliffs on either side. Old kasbahs stand on the slopes, some restored, many slowly crumbling back into the earth they were built from.

The Monkey Fingers

About 15 kilometers from Boumalne, near the village of Tamellalt, the valley wall is a mass of rounded, finger-like rock columns shaped by erosion. A walk of two to three hours with a local guide leads through a narrow side canyon among the formations.

The Gorge and the Hairpin Bends

Further up, the valley narrows into the gorge proper, and the road climbs the cliff in a tight series of switchbacks. The view down over the bends from the café at the top is the most photographed spot in the valley. Beyond it, the road continues through a narrow defile toward the high villages.

Walking in the Valley

Paths along the river link the villages through gardens and orchards, and make easy walks of an hour or more. Longer hikes climb to plateaus where semi-nomadic families graze their herds in summer; some still use cave shelters in the cliffs. Guesthouses can arrange guides.

The Valley of Roses

West of Boumalne, around the town of Kelaat M’Gouna, hedges of Damask roses line the fields. The flowers are picked at dawn in spring and distilled into rose water and oil, sold in cooperatives along the road. A rose festival is usually held in May, at harvest time. Outside spring there are no blooms, though the valley remains attractive for walking.

Getting There and Where to Stay

Boumalne Dades is about two hours east of Ouarzazate, passing the palm grove of Skoura, and an hour west of Tinghir and the Todra Gorge. Buses stop in town; shared taxis and minibuses run up the valley.

The most pleasant places to stay are the small guesthouses spread along the valley road, many with terraces over the river. Sleeping in the valley rather than in town lets you see the cliffs at sunset and sunrise.

Practical Tips

• Nights are cold from late autumn to early spring, and snow can fall on the upper valley.
• The road is paved to the top of the bends and beyond, but narrow; drive slowly and use your horn on blind corners.
• Withdraw cash in Boumalne; there are no banks up the valley.
• Many tours combine the Dades and Todra gorges in a single day. If you can, give each its own night.